Dirtbag Profile: Rocky Mountain National Park, Estes Park


  • Distance to grocery store: 5-20 minutes, depending on where you're staying (in town vs. the park)
  • Availability of good coffee: Decent. There's Kind Coffee, but I don't think it's that exceptional in quality. The roasts are pretty dark and the drip coffee is somewhat weak.


  • Food: Average
  • Gas: Average
  • Climbing: $40 for a Rocky Mountain Annual Pass.
  • Camping: Fucking expensive or far away.

Gear Store

  • Nearest Gear Store: Estes Park Mountain Shop, right in town. There are a number of other "outdoor" stores, but they're mostly geared toward tourists.

Nearest Town

  • Estes Park: One of the biggest tourist traps in the country. Finding cheap camping is nearly impossible, and expect to pay $20-$30 a night. Despite the vast quantity of National Forest surrounding the park, you'll be hard pressed to find a forest service road with free camping. In addition, the police are finely attuned to dirtbaggers / vagabonds and they will find you, eventually. The tourists are fat and abundant. They make it extremely difficult to find parking in town or at the park during peak months (June-September). Expect to have to get up incredibly early in summer months if you're looking to get a parking spot at Bear Lake Trailhead. Lay low on weekends and consider evening sessions.
  • Places to Hang Out: 
    • Kind Coffee. Decent wifi and food, but expect it to be crowded on weekends and in the summer. Parking sucks, get there early or park across the street at the Library or Visitor's Center.
    • Library:  The hours kinda suck, but you can poach wifi from the parking lot. 
    • Coffee on the Rocks: I actually liked the atmosphere of this coffee shop better than Kind, but the hours weren't as good and parking was more difficult in a large van. Better scenery and quieter, with arguably better coffee.
    • Visitor's Center: You can poach the wifi if you park close enough to the building, and you can park all day with access to bathrooms. Go around the back to use the bathrooms after hours.
    • The Park: find a lesser used trailhead and hang out. You won't have cell service but you can hang out with your vehicle doors open and smell fresh air. Lawn Lake parking lot is a good one.
  • Emergency Overnight Parking: I poached a few spots in town when I stayed in Estes. Please don't hang out in one spot for multiple nights in a row, but if you desperately need a place to stay, here are a few:
    • West Riverside Road: there are a few parking lots that don't have no-overnight signs
    • The Post Office: I tried this one on the weekend on two separate occasions, and wasn't bothered
    • Hotel Parking Lots: I have friends who've stayed at the Stanley without getting bothered. I'm sure there are others
    • The Library: I talked to some Brits who camped here for a month without getting bothered. After a few nights I got hassled by the police. 

Camping / Lifestyle

  • Options: If you have lots of money, you have all the options in the world. But expect to pay $30/night. I haven't paid for camping yet, but the National Park seems to have the best options. Split a campsite with as many people as possible and you can bring costs down.
  • Free Camping: You can poach spots in town, but expect to be paranoid about the cops. Not that easy. There are a few options for forest service camping, but many of them require 4 wheel drive vehicles. Here's where I tried:
    • Pole Hill Road: closed until early summer. There are no overnight parking signs before the gate, but you could probably poach a spot there for a night without being noticed. The road after the gate is pretty rough, don't expect to get more than 10 feet without a 4 wheel drive vehicle.
    • Jay's Dream: this season, due to the rain, the road got torn up by cars and we couldn't make it to the camping after a few days. Decent in the off season, In the summer, its full of rednecks shouting loudly at each other and it's difficult to find a parking spot.
    • Johnny Park: there's a road down Highway 7 a few miles before Wild Basin (when coming from Estes). Keep following the road back and you'll eventually hit a free camping area, though there is private land all around. Was busy for how remote it was every time we stayed there.
  • Sociability of camping: I mostly poached spots in town, so socializing at night sucked. Likely to be much better within the park or at an actual campground.
  • Camping atmosphere: Again, I poached spots in town. It sucked.
  • Showers: Rocky Mountain Health Club has day passes - I recommend this option because, while a little more expensive, they have hot tubs and saunas. Both laundromats in town have showers for $4-$5 a pop.
  • Laundry: I recommend the Village Laundry. There's another laundromat in town, near Safeway, but it's pretty outdated and coin-only. Village Laundry has wifi and new machines that accept a credit card. 


  • World class. 
  • Atmosphere: Beautiful. Chaos Canyon is the most beautiful bouldering area I've been to so far. Incredible scenery and usually fairly quiet, even on busy weekends. It makes up for the shittiness that is Estes Park.
  • Pad Situation: Bring lots of pads, because the landings are usually shitty. If you're not morally against it, I'd suggest stashing, if for nothing but safety's sake. For example, Deep Puddle Dynamics is a problem in Lower that, ideally, needs about 8 pads to feel safe. 
  • Areas: There are tons of areas, many of which are not in the guidebook or are under-represented. Here are the one's I've visited:
    • Early and Late Season / Cold Weather Crags:
      • Wild Basin: somewhat lower elevation with a earlier season than Lower. Medium-length approach at about 25 minutes. Really worth checking out - there are some good problems that are shaded all day and this area doesn't get quite as much traffic as the main Park areas. Lots of development has been going on here lately. The landings tend to be pretty good. Not in the guidebook.
      • Endo Valley: A concentrated area with a few good problems. Two problems, in particular, are in a cave and are good for rainy days. Short approach, about 10 minutes. Not in the guidebook.
      • Moraine Park: A few decent problems worth checking out. Medium-length approach at 20 minutes.
      • Roadside Boulders: there are a number of boulders along Bear Lake Road that are worth checking out. The only one in the book is the Veritas boulder. 
      • Stinkbug: Only stopped here once. Mostly hard problems, but there's potential for an amazing warmup boulder just up the hill. 
    • Summer Crags:
      • Lower Chaos: I'll try not to be redundant here, as Lower is one of the most popular areas and is covered the most in the guidebook. But, bring lots of pads and a tarp if you're there earlier than August. A shovel is also helpful before July. Having lots of food and water is also a good idea.
      • Upper Chaos

Lastly, an informative video.

EC Stack Review: Full 3-week Cycle, Break, New Cycle

EC stacks are popular in bodybuilding circles due to their appetite suppressing and stimulant qualities. It's essentially a combination of ephedrine and caffeine spaced out at regular intervals throughout the day. What I've learned is, essentially, ephedrine and caffeine have a synergistic effect. Both have stimulant properties, but when used in combination, create a sort of "1 + 1 = 3" effect on the body - in other words, the product of the two substances is greater than the sum of its parts. There have been numerous scientific studies on this effect and it's ability to help people lose weight, and it's shown to be pretty effective.

Ephedrine is a drug that's sold over the counter in the United States as a nasal decongestant, but is pretty strictly regulated because it can be used as a precursor to create meth. With tightening of drug laws, the United States recently made it illegal to sell outside of a pharmacy. In Canada however, it's commonly sold in supplement stores and is pretty much freely available. It is also legal to import ephedrine into the United States via Canada, but is usually too much of a hassle that Canadian supplement stores won't ship across the border.

I wanted to write a post on EC stacks and my experience, because I spent months researching them prior to actually trying one, and found very little in the way of detailed write-ups. As someone who doesn't drink / smoke / do drugs / take any pills regularly, taking any substance is pretty foreign to me and pretty scary. The obsessive part of my brain wanted to know exactly what would feel when taking an EC stack so I could assess whether it'd be right for me, but came up short when doing research. So, I decided to do as detailed a writeup as possible for anyone else considering an EC stack so they could make an informed decision as to whether it was right for them.

So, here's my log of my results. In all the studies I read regarding patient trials, the ideal combination of ephedrine and caffeine was around 20mg and 200mg, respectively, three times daily, so I worked up to around that dose. Additionally, I read (anecdotally) that cycling off the stack every three weeks or so would help reset the body's tolerance and therefore the stack's appetite suppression, so at the three week mark I stopped taking ephedrine and began to taper down my caffeine intake. After a "break" week, I started a new cycle.

Note: I didn't calorie-count during my EC stack cycle. I calorie counted for about 5 months last year, so I felt I had portion sizes and meal plans down pretty well. 

Cycle #1

Day 1: 

10am: 8mg Ephedrine, 2 cups coffee

Not feeling too much. I have the normal head rush of caffeine, but a little bit of "body rush" that you don't get with coffee. It's more of a full-body restlessness where you just feel like you want to run around and move. 

Appetite not suppressed. Ate more than the previous day, actually. I think this partially might have to do with the fact that I've been doing more cardio the last couple days- my current location has some amazing trail running and I've been hitting them the last couple days. I've written previous posts about how running sends my appetite skyrocketing, perhaps this is why.

Fell asleep around 11:30pm.

Day 2:

8am: 16mg Ephedrine, 2 cups coffee; 1pm: 8mg Ephedrine, 0cal energy drink (~100mg caffeine)

Definitely getting more of a full body rush today. Not noticing that the ephedrine itself is helping concentration - definitely still the normal effects of coffee, but I feel a bit warmer and my heart feels like it's beating a little faster. A little rough to sit still. It makes me more excited to move and get exercise. 

Appetite somewhat suppressed. I still get a feeling of "hunger", it's just slightly easier to ignore. Nothing magical for sure.

Went for a run 4 hours after my last dose. Felt fine - no crazy increased heart rate like they warn you about. I think I spaced the dose and the run out enough that I wasn't in any danger. I felt a little more fresh on my run than I have in the last few days - the hills weren't quite as hard and I wasn't quite as out of breath. 

Still only taking two doses a day- I'm concerned about getting enough sleep.

It's 6:30pm now, still feeling some of the body rush of the ephedrine (5.5 hours later). Planning on the same dose tomorrow, but with better planning food-wise. 

Thoughts so far about the stack: not negative, but not incredibly positive. 

Day 3:

8:30am: 16mg Ephedrine, 12oz coffee; 12:30pm: 8mg Ephedrine, 24oz of green tea

Quality of sleep last night was... okay. I definitely slept, probably six hours, but while my brain was ready to shut off, my body was restless. Fell asleep around midnight, and was periodically awake. Woke up at 5:00am, then again at 7:00am. 

This morning I'm feeling pretty nauseous. 

I'm also finding I have to drink more water, I'm a little bit more thirsty than I usually am, which isn't much. 

9:30am - Feeling better. Nausea is mostly gone. Not feeling quite the rush that I did yesterday. It's a little more pleasant, not quite as harsh. Mostly, I just feel caffeinated.

12:00pm - So far, the 16mg dose is feeling pretty chill compared to yesterday. Had greek yogurt for breakfast, feeling like I could eat more, but I don't have to. 

Regarding dose timing: 4 hours between doses seems perfect. 

7:15pm: Today's doses felt pretty chill and way less jittery than the previous. Had a pretty positive outlook overall.

Random observations:

  • While the ephedrine is still effective, I have this sort of burny feeling in my lungs. I'm thinking that's the decongestant properties of the drug.
  • I get way more nauseous when I over-eat than when I'm not on the stack. I guess that's good?

Day 4:

8:20am: 24mg Ephedrine, 12oz coffee; 12:30pm: 16mg Ephedrine, 0cal energy water stuff

Last night I slept really well for the first time in a long time. I didn't sleep well the first few nights on the EC stack and had been kind of an insomniac prior to that. Last night I slept about 9 hours.

8:50am: wow. Really wired. Pretty unpleasant. Oh well, I can still focus and get work done. Kinda nauseous. 

9:24am: Okay. It's evened out a bit now. Feeling pretty productive and focused. Nausea is pretty much gone. Not hungry whatsoever despite last having eaten at 6:30pm last night.  Drinking lots of water. 

1:30pm: Decided to take the 16mg dose because the 24mg dose evened out pretty well. 


  • With higher doses, hunger is less (well, duh....)
  • I still get hungry pretty regularly, but I the main thing is that I can't eat as much in one sitting. 

Day 5:

8:30am: 24mg Ephedrine, 20oz coffee; 12:30pm: 16mg Ephedrine, tea

Last night I got a little bit less sleep than the previous. Probably fell asleep around midnight. Quality of sleep wasn't great - I'd wake up to pee and then would just be like, wide awake, and then crash back into be bed.  Kinda bizarre. Very vivid dreams. Gonna keep dose 2 at 16mg this afternoon so hopefully my body will be a little more relaxed tonight. 

Day 6:

7:30am: 24mg Ephedrine, 12oz coffee, 1/2 tsp Matcha tea in greek yogurt; 11:30pm: 24mg Ephedrine, tea

The ephedrine buzz is a lot more even now. I can still feel it, but it's not as worrisome or distracting. For any climbers interested, it messes with my lead head a lot - I get frustrated and scared easier when on point. I think I'm going to try to stick to bouldering.

I've been thinking about adding the usual third dose in the day soon (most dosing guidelines have you taking a third dose in the afternoon), because the lowered food quantity catches up to me at the end of the day and I eat a lot of calories after my second dose has worn off. Going to taper it upwards so that I can fall asleep.

Going to look into caffeine pills rather than trying to time coffee / tea and guess how much caffeine I'm consuming.

Day 7:

8:30am: 24mg ephedrine; 12:30pm: 24mg ephedrine; 4:30pm: 8mg ephedrine 

So, today I decided to take 8mg of ephedrine at 4:30 as my third dose. I was alert, focused, but not overstimulated like I still am with the 24mg doses. I also found that the appetite suppression qualities were still there, and I didn’t binge on dinner.

For anyone interested in what I’ve been eating, here’s what I ate today:


  • 1 cup greek yogurt with stevia, matcha 
  • 4 egg scramble, onions, broccoli
  • 2 pieces of bacon, crispy, fat drained


  • 300-400 calories worth of hummus 
  • 5-6 carrots


  • A chicken sausage
  • Half an apple


  • 8oz pork country-style ribs, seasoning rub
  • carrots
  • onions
  • broccoli
  • spinach


  • 4 squares of dark chocolate (250cal)

So it’s not like I went from eating my normal 2500+ calories a day to eating nothing - I still eat pretty normally, just slightly less than I usually would. 

Day 8:

(same dose)

The 8mg dose yesterday ended up being fine sleep-wise, which is what I was the most nervous about. Fell asleep around 11pm and slept until 7. Almost couldn’t feel the doses today. The strongest was actually the last dose of the day, which I accidentally took an hour early. 

Day 9:

(same dose)

I barely felt the first dose today, enough that I wondered if I actually took it. I was really hungry this morning, but I'm thinking my body is starting to register the lower calorie intake over the last week. I'm starting to crave junk food - something that really only happens when I'm not eating at maintenance calories.

The second dose felt a little bit stronger though. Went sport climbing about an hour after the second dose and felt incredibly winded after finishing routes, my heart rate was a bit higher than usual.

Day 10:

Dose 1: 24mg; Dose 2: 24mg; Dose 3: 16mg

Bumped up the last dose of the day. Not feeling the ephedrine too much anymore. Sleeping fine at current dosage.

Day 11:

All three doses: 24mg

Don't really feel the first dose anymore. Slightly feel the second and third doses. Eating closer to the amount that I'd normally eat lately, wondering if my tolerance is getting high.

Day 12 - Day 21 (end of cycle):

All three doses: 24mg

So, I stopped updating daily here because the EC stack started to feel pretty normal. The chest-burny feeling that I got at the beginning went away and I'd just feel energetic. At some point in here I started taking caffeine pills instead of trying to time my coffee intake with ephedrine. This kept my caffeine intake consistent and I felt like it helped the ephedrine work significantly better than when I was taking odd amounts of coffee / tea. The third week of EC stacking, including caffeine pills, felt way more effective than weeks one or two, and was much more pleasant. Also, most of the negative side-effects of ephedrine were gone, meaning only the appetite suppressant and energizing qualities were left. I got into a rythym of eating what I needed and sensing when I didn't eat eat enough.

There were definitely days where I didn't eat enough. I have a TDEE of 2300-2500 calories, and one day I retroactively counted the calories I'd eaten that day to be around 1600, which is a fairly steep drop. Those days in the gym, I'd feel pretty weak and unrecovered, and I'd try to up my intake a bit more at the end of the day. 

Overall, with its ups and downs, I ended up being really happy with the EC stack cycle. My impression of the cycle only improved as I went on. I'm seeing some good results in the mirror: more prominent abs, biceps and veins. I'm climbing better too: my projecting grade is starting to go way easier and I'm trying the next grade up. I'm excited to start cycle 2 and continue to see results. 


Break Week

Day 1:

0mg ephedrine, coffee as needed (4 cups (12oz) / 800mg?)

9:00am: Feeling pretty much the same as usual so far. Not noticing any negative side effects from lack of ephedrine, yet. One thing that's been worrying me is my caffeine intake: I used to be someone who would have 1-2 cups of coffee a day. On the cycle, I was taking the equivalent of 5-6. This week, while I stop taking ephedrine, I've decided that I'm going to work on tapering down my intake. I'm only going to ingest caffeine in coffee / tea form - so, no caffeine pills like I'd take on the cycle. The plan is to drink coffee in the morning so I can get some work done, and tea in the afternoon so I don't totally crash. 

10:00am: My mind is awake (coffee), but my body feels sleepy/tired. Might see if I can go on a long hike this afternoon to get myself moving. 

6:30pm: limited my caffeine to 3-4 cups of coffee this morning (hey, that's two less than usual...). Went on a 4.5 hour hike at about 1:30pm. Felt slightly headachey but drank a lot of water and focused on the hike, and eventually felt really excited and awake. I was feeling great, albeit a bit tired, after I got back to the van. Mostly noticing the lack of caffeine rather than the ephedrine.

Also: today was my CHEAT day of the month. I ate all the things I don't normally eat: nut butters, dried fruit, profuse amounts of hummus and fatty meat. It was great.

Day 2

0mg ephedrine, 3 cups (12oz) coffee (600mg?)

Slept like shit, despite taking melatonin before bed. Pretty restless, and then felt really tired in the morning. Was going to get up early and hike out to some new rock climbing, but slept until about 9:00am.

11:00am: Despite not sleeping as much, I'm feeling way less drowsy and lethargic today. Yesterday, it took three cups of coffee for me to feel productive when working. So far I've had less than a cup and I'm already way more productive. 

Day 3

0mg ephedrine, 2 cups (12oz) coffee (400mg?)

Slept better last night, and didn't take any melatonin. Went on a 12-mile trail run/hike this morning, so my appetite and fatigue levels are out of whack today. Unfortunately, that means I can't report too accurately about how I'm feeling in those regards. I'm feeling pretty much back to normal as far as I can tell. 

Day 4

0mg ephedrine, 2 cups (12oz) coffee (400mg?)

Slept well last night. Lately I've been waking up feeling exhausted despite sleeping 8-9 hours. Wondering if it's related to lowered ephedrine / caffeine intake. 

Two cups of coffee is getting me pretty jazzed again.

Day 5

0mg ephedrine, 2 cups (12oz) coffee (400mg?)

Feeling pretty normal.  I'm a bit tired in the afternoons because I limit my caffeine to mornings, but that's pretty much it. My appetite has returned to normal: eating a LOT. Hungry all the time.

Day 6

0mg ephedrine, 4 cups (8oz) green tea (100-200mg?)

No coffee today, just green tea. I was definitely drowsy in the afternoon. I've been eating a lot lately, but not more than pre-EC stack levels. Tomorrow is the last day of the break week, and then I start stack #2. 

Day 7

0mg ephedrine, 1 cup coffee (200mg)

Had coffee today because a bunch of friends met up at a coffee shop. Coffee used to give me headaches before I got used to it - it's giving me headaches again. Which means I've fairly successfully lowered my caffeine tolerance. Yay!

Psyched to start another cycle tomorrow. 

Cycle #2

Day 1:

All three doses: 16mg ephedrine, 100mg caffeine

Decided to go with 16mg to start because when I started my last stack, 8mg barely registered. The first dose of the day was a little intense, but I was used to the feeling of ephedrine, and therefore it wasn't too bad.

The second two doses were more mild, partially (I believe) due to the lower doses of caffeine taken with each dose (last cycle, I took each dose of ephedrine with 200mg caffeine).

I like the idea of taking 100mg caffeine (in pill form) instead of 200mg caffeine, because: I typically drink coffee in the mornings, meaning I'll get at least 200mg with the first dose, and it'll mean that my caffeine tolerance won't be quite as high as it was by the end of the last stack.

Day 2:

All three doses: 16mg ephedrine, 100-200mg caffeine

Slept okay last night, probably 6-7 hours. Not the greatest, but I'm confident it'll even out.

The doses felt less potent today. Feeling pretty normal, except my appetite is totally back in check. Feelng way better than I did at the start of the last cycle: I think it's part familiarity with how the stack works, and part residual tolerance. Either way, I'm psyched to see how this cycle goes and if I make any progress. 



For the first few days, I’d suggest taking some kind of light sleep aid an hour before you plan to sleep (or just have one around if you're feeling particularly restless before bed). 

Bump up your morning dose faster than your afternoon / evening dose. The second dose does add on a bit to the first dose, so you won't need quite as much until you've acclimated.

It has been said before, but if your diet isn’t 100%, an EC stack isn’t going to help you. It helps, but the stack is not magic. I’ve found that all the things I had to learn on my first diet still needed to be applied (e.g.: take breaks when eating to allow the fullness to set in, carbs make you hungry, you can go way overboard if you eat high calorie foods, etc...)

If you take your second (or third) dose too early, it’ll have an additive effect and you’ll experience negative side-effects. Make sure you experiment with how long you need between doses - erring on the longer side rather than shorter. Start with 5+ hours and then taper down.



Is ephedrine addictive?: Not exactly. When you take it, you feel really energized, like you could take down a tough workout or a difficult boulder problem. When you stop taking it, you feel more lethargic. Less bubbly and excited. But it evens out really quickly - I really only noticed tiredness the day after stopping the stack, and after that it was just caffeine withdrawal. Nonetheless, it's a bit mentally addictive - when setting out for a solid 8 hours of rock climbing, the stack made me still feel psyched at hour 6. Without the stack, I have to find other ways to stay psyched. However, I don't have a particularly addictive personality, so your results may vary. 

Lawn Lake Trail Bouldering : Rocky Mountain National Park

Today I went on a 4.5 hour hike up Lawn Lake Trail. My intention was to get some rest day non-climbing activity, but also to scope out some more lower elevation bouldering that would be snow-free, unlike Emerald Lake or Lower Chaos at the moment. 

The Lawn Lake Trail runs along the Roaring River, the same river that flooded the park in 1982. 


The trail is northwest of Endo Valley, and therefore has similarly scattered boulders along it's length. Below are a few pictures. There was one that I'd describe as a mini-Atari (a la Bishop, CA), with large compression moves getting smaller in width as you move up on the boulder (unfortunately, no pics of that one)

Additionally, as a result of the flood, the riverbed contains some massive car-sized boulders that looked potentially awesome: 

When I was looking at boulders, I was keeping in mind the fact that most boulderers don't want to walk very far. Almost all the photos of boulders shown are within 45 minutes of the trailhead, and are in this general area:

Gonna check this area out in the next week, particularly the river boulders. Stay posted. 

Mini dirtbagging break: Training in a Gym

I started my dirtbagging trip in December, and spent three months climbing most days and doing little else. While I was outside for hours most days, I didn’t really feel like the amount of physical activity I was doing was that high. When I was living back in Wisconsin, my daily activity would look something like this:

  • Walk / run / bike to work
  • Walk / run / bike to the gym 
  • Lift for 1.5 - 2 hours
  • Walk / run / bike to work
  • Walk / run / bike home
  • Rock climb for 2-3 hours
  • Go for a run

It was hard to go from that much exercise and training to just climbing. But I was mostly okay with it - I’d spent 4+ years being bitter that I couldn’t live this lifestyle and now I was finally doing it - I’d have the rest of my life to work out and be in good shape.

Nonetheless, when I had a chance to take two weeks to train out of my road trip schedule, I jumped for it. I’d spent the last two weeks in Joe’s Valley, and had to be in Denver 2.5 weeks from then. I decided to split the distance and spend that time in Grand Junction, Colorado, at a gym where I’d briefly stopped at previously. The gym was brand new and had a great training facility: campus boards with multiple grip styles, 6-8 hangboards, free weights, gymnastic rings, a decently sized bouldering area and tall walls with autobelays. I decided to make the most of having 2 weeks and improve all the things that would be difficult to work on outside. Here was my list:

  • Weight lifting to get my pulling strength back to par, improve my opposing muscles
  • Campusing
  • High volume workouts (doing lots of low to mid-range boulder problems each session)
  • Hangboarding

Based on these things, I made a A/B day schedule:

Day 1:

  •     Warm up doing lots of volume on v0 to v4
  •     Hangboard: heavy weights, short intervals, high intensity
  •     Campus board
  •     Trail running

Day 2:

  •     If my fingers felt strong, I’d do v0 - v4 boulder problems, focusing on volume
  •     If my fingers and forearms felt sore, I’d do 6-7 long, easy routes on autobelays for active recovery
  •     Lift weights

The idea was to jam pack every day with as much training as possible without injuring myself.  Overall, it went really well. 


  • I got significantly better at campusing in a short period of time. I learned to double clutch the biggest rungs in about three sessions and could do a double clutch or two on the next-biggest rungs
  • I felt like I was really working my tendons and forearms when hangboarding
  • I could do a slow one-arm negative again by the end of the two weeks
  • I got in a lot of volume in a short time
  • I got my cardio back by trail running

Stuff I Learned

  • I could only get about 4 campus sessions in two weeks - more, and my fingers would start to get sore. I intend to use this information in the future to better plan my training sessions. 
  • When hangboarding, it’s better to use a smaller number of grip types and get more volume on each grip type than to try to do 12 grip types and only one set of each. 
  • I really dislike projecting indoors
  • Doing weighted pull ups on rings really helps with one-arm progression as compared to straight bar pull ups

I'm pretty psyched to do more training cycles like this in the future. I think it'll be a good balance between climbing outdoors full time and improving my fitness. 

My experience with L-Theanine

I recently started drinking coffee last fall. My relationship with caffeine doesn't start there though: I'm a long-time lover of tea, usually of the chai or green varieties. 

When I started drinking coffee, I noticed that I'd often get a headache, I'd feel jittery, and wouldn't have much improved focus while at work or in class despite being over-caffeinated. I attribute this to coffee's higher caffeine content - coming from a regular consumer of green tea, coffee is a pretty big jump.

Nonetheless, when I'd go back to tea, I occasionally noticed effects of the tea that would be out of caffeine's scope - tea lovers call it, "tea drunk" - for me, it was a really positive mood, an increased sense of well-being, high energy and incredible focus. 

I did some research and found that these effects are often attribute to L-Theanine. L-Theanine is an amino acid found predominantly in green tea, and it's known to counter some of the negative effects of caffeine while providing a number of other positive effects. If you want more proof, according to a quick scan of studies of L-Theanine on Google Scholar, it:

  • Reduces negative responses to stress
  • Reduces mental fatigue
  • Promotes: faster reaction time, increased alertness
  • Has mood-enhancing properties

Knowing this, I wanted to see if I could try L-theanine on it's own or take it with coffee when I didn't feel like drinking tea. So picked up a bottle from a GNC, and started trying it at different times of day. Here's what I noticed:

  • When taken with caffeine, I get mixed results: occasionally, I feel very alert and focused but also relaxed at the same time. Other times, I mostly just feel awake but unfocused - loopy, almost, in a kind of dreamy mood.
  • When taken without caffeine, I feel very relaxed and calm. Because of this, I've started using it as a sleep aid if I'm feeling particularly restless at night. 

I'd recommend anyone try it - I didn't find it particularly potent so it won't screw up your day. Worth a shot, for sure.


Dirtbag Profile: Joe's Valley


  • Distance to grocery store: 15 minutes (Food Ranch)
  • Distance to natural food store: ???
  • Availability of good coffee: Nope.


  • Food: Average to lower prices
  • Gas: Average
  • Climbing: Free.
  • Camping: Free

Gear Store

  • Nearest Gear Store: at least an hour, probably more.

Nearest Town

  • Orangeville: A tiny town with few amenities. The Food Ranch is a gem though: a hot bar, groceries, gas, free wifi, and excellent people watching opportunities. 


  • Options: Lots of options.
  • Sociability of camping: Low, somewhat higher in Right Fork.
  • Camping atmosphere: Dispersed. If you stay in Right Fork, you can usually grab a campsite next to a few other groups. Otherwise, nights are pretty quiet.
  • Showers: There's a public pool that has $4 day passes in town.


  • World class. 
  • Atmosphere: Nice. Left fork can be stunningly beautiful when the river is running clear.

Dirtbag Profile: Bishop


  • Distance to grocery store: 10 minutes
  • Distance to natural food store: 10 minutes (Manor Market)
  • Availability of good coffee: Good.


  • Food: Expensive
  • Gas: Expensive! California prices.
  • Climbing is free.
  • Camping: Cheap. In the Pit it's $2/night, otherwise you can camp for free in a number of places. 

Gear Store

  • Nearest Gear Store: 10 minutes, in Bishop. Wilson's Eastside Sports is awesome. 

Nearest Town

  • Bishop: Touristy, but lots of outdoorsy people means gear shops, cool bars, good coffee and quality food. Cute and small, but it has most amenities. 


  • Options: Lots of options.
  • Sociability of camping: Average. The Pit can get pretty crowded but there are always people out having fires. 
  • Camping atmosphere: At the Pit, it's pretty dusty and occasionally crowded but there are good views of the mountains. Bathrooms are a plus. In dispersed camping areas like the Buttermilks, you get beautiful views but no amenities. 
  • Showers: You have to go into town or find a hot spring. 


  • World class. 

Dirtbag Food: Budgeting and Nutrition

I once met a dirtbag whose sole nutritional plan was to "eat lots of pasta". As a former psuedo-bodybuilder / powerlifter who highly emphasized nutrition, "lots of pasta" wasn't gonna cut it.

From the start of this trip, I knew that I wanted to eat healthy. And not just healthy, but cheap, too. I wanted to stay Paleo: so, no processed foods, legumes, grains or alcohol. I also didn't want to consume high calorie foods like nuts, so I avoided those as well. It was a rocky start, but I made it work. 

I keep my macro ratios roughly the following:

  • 50% protein
  • 30% fat
  • 20% carbs

Which means lots of meat and veggies. Unfortunately, meat and vegetables aren't cheap. And storing them kinda sucks. But I didn't want my dirtbag adventure to result with me being significantly fatter than when I started. 

I usually budgeted myself $2-4 / meal depending on the location - for example, Texas has fairly cheap food, while California is significantly more expensive. 

Here were a few rules of thumb for shopping that kept my expenses down:

  1. Never pay more than $3/lb for meat. This often means eating a lot of pork, dark meat and manager's specials. Who cares. Protein.
  2. Eggs. Eggs. Eggs. If meat was more expensive, I'd eat more eggs. I was eating 8 a day at the peak and now eat 3-4 a day. Good proteins and fats. Buy in bulk: I'd get a pack of 5 dozen for $9. This made breakfast really cheap.
  3. Never pay more than $2/lb for veggies. This means that the following should be your vegetable staples:
    • Carrots (5lb bags are usually 2-3 bucks)
    • Onions (cheap and oh so tasty)
    • Broccoli (green)
  4. Cheap condiments include: Sriracha, pasta sauce, and some kind of meat rub that you can put on anything. Psuedo-paleo, but hey, you gotta make food taste good.
  5. Generic brand everything. 
  6. If I absolutely needed to buy something prepared - like, if I were driving 8 hours overnight - I'd get a rotisserie chicken and some salad greens. Rotisserie chickens are about the cheapest precooked meat you can buy in a grocery store and go a long way.

My personal splurge items include:

  1. Fruit. Fruit is expensive and generally not worth it, but nice on occasion. Cheap fruit includes:
    • Apples
    • Bananas
  2. Greek Yogurt. I usually pick this up when it's $3.50 or less for a 32oz container. 
  3. Dark chocolate. 




Dirtbag Profile: Hueco Tanks

I'm not going to cover what's already been said a million times about living as a climbing bum in Hueco, but I'd like to start giving each area I visit a review based on certain criteria. So, here goes:


  • Distance to grocery store: 20 minutes
  • Distance to natural food store: 1 hour
  • Availability of good coffee: shitty.


  • Food: very cheap
  • Gas: very cheap
  • With Hueco, you're pretty far from anything, so unless you carpool, you'll probably be driving more. 
  • While you have to spend money to get a parks pass, once you buy it, entrance to the park is free. If you're going to be in Hueco for a long time, it ends up being pretty cheap. If you want to avoid paying for the parks pass, carpooling is always an option.
  • Camping: no free camping unless you work out a deal with campsite owners. 

Gear Store

  • You've got Pete's for your immediate climbing needs, but El Paso currently doesn't have an REI. There is Reliance Outdoor Gear according to Google, but it's pretty far away and I can't vouch for it's quality  (I've never been there). 

Nearest Town

  • El Paso: sucks, so hard. It's sprawling, generic, semi-urban suburb lacking any unique character. Picture miles and miles of Walmarts and used car lots, with no distinct city center or cultural atmosphere.


  • Options: There are a multitude of options for camping within two miles of the park.
  • Sociability of camping: Hueco, so far, has had the most social atmosphere I've seen in a climbing area.  I've met most of my dirtbag friends this way. 
  • Camping atmosphere: very social, but you also feel removed from the city and out in nature. 
  • Showers: The Rock Ranch and Gletherland both have paid showers


  • World class. 


Oh. Hey. It's been a while. Here's why:

In fall 2011, I decided to take a NOLS mountaineering course in the Himalayas of India. I flew to New Delhi with the hope of doing something different with my life - temporarily dropping out of university and for the first time in my life not attending classes in the fall. While I was there, I met some incredible people: dirtbags, adventurers, world travelers, and climbers. As I came to know these people, I discussed my plans for the future and my anxiety at the inevitability of getting a desk job and settling into an unsatisfying life. I expressed a desire to rock climb, to travel, and to do something different than expected.  

At the same time, I was getting used to living life out of a backpack: we spent 40 days trekking through the Himalayas, through rainforests, alpine tundras and glaciers. In this process, I realized that I didn't need any of the comforts of modern life to be happy. What I needed to be happy was a succinct list: beautiful landscapes; consistent exploration and adventure; and a feeling of productivity, be it through pushing through fear or pushing grades or making beautiful things. 

I kept talking with my coursemates and the idea of dirtbagging came along: living in my truck or out of a backpack, living cheaply, and spending the majority of my time outdoors. I excitedly pressed for more information and the ex-dirtbags of the group gave me some ideas on how to do it. From there, the seed was planted.

I wanted to be a dirtbag.

But at the same time, I knew I needed to finish my degree. I'd invested a year of my life at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, and I knew that I would someday I might want a job that involved using technical skills in a professional setting. So I waited. I went back to school for two more years, working retail and odd jobs while trying not to be bitter that I couldn't climb and be somewhere that made me happy. 

Finally though, in early December of 2014, I graduated. And on December 30th, I packed up my truck with all the gear required to live and climb for an indefinite period of time. Alone and afraid, but incredibly excited, I made my way down to Hueco Tanks State Park, where I'd spend the first five weeks of my trip climbing meeting some of the best dirtbags I know. 

Since then, I've been to: Bishop, California; Red Rocks in Las Vegas, Nevada; Joe's Valley, Utah ; and Grand Junction, Colorado. I've met some of the most amazing people with similar dreams as mine. 

I'd say the most profound thing I've learned on this trip is what I need to be happy. In particular, what sort of work-life balance is optimal for my personality. Prior to this trip, I'd only known two extremes: being absolutely bogged down by school and work and bitter about my inability to travel; or, being on short, workless vacations where I was happy, but felt lazy and unproductive.

I know now that being in nature, climbing and exploring my hobbies is a critical part of my happiness - but at the same time, that being successful and feeling productive is equally as important. From this point on, I intend to perfect the balance between work and play. I don't want to fall into the rut of the overworked American - 40+ hour weeks, 51 weeks of the year is not for me. Ample time for  travel, exploration and climbing must always be a part of my life. I want financial success to come as the result of doing what makes me happy and feeling productive - but not be the thing that makes me happy or is my end goal. 

At the moment, I see no end in sight for this trip. I'm currently working part time, remotely, as a programmer for a decently-paying company. Given that this lifestyle is incredibly cheap, I'm saving money and making future plans to visit more and more places and to push myself as a climber. I'm excited to see where it takes me.

Happy dirtbagging!

Dirtbag Tips

The last four months, I've been dirtbagging. First in a truck, and now in a van. I've camped on BLM land and in Walmart parking lots. Here are some tips I've learned:


Coffee Makers: if you're van stealthing in a city, or live out of a vehicle without a sink, an Aeropress is the way to go. Easy cleanup makes all the difference if you have minimal water and lack the patience to scoop out French press grinds with a spoon. Otherwise, if I'm camping on public lands, I prefer a french press for its ability to make a lot of strong coffee at one time.

Pee Bottles: Get one. Women, get one and pair it with a funnel. I can't tell you how useful it is, but I learned it the hard way when the only cheap camping option near Red Rocks was in a Lowe's parking lot. But, please, don't make the same mistake I did and use a Nalgene as your pee bottle. You'll want to replace them every few weeks, because... Well, you'll find out.

Wet Wipes: possibly the most valuable thing I have in my van. Use them. Abuse them. I average about 10 a day. They're the most significant item keeping me clean. 

Soap: Dr. Bronners. Not just because it's biodegradeable, but because you can use it in minimal water situations without fear of nasty soap residue like you would with a regular dish soap. It just doesn't have quite the same strong bitter taste as other soaps. 


Stoves: I use a Coleman two-burner stove. Skip the backpacking stoves, they're not worth the hassle.

Cookware: Before starting my dirtbagging adventures, I had the idea of using a pressure cooker to lower cooking times and reduce fuel costs. It worked out okay, but over time I just adjusted my cooking methods to make things cook faster and a pressure cooker is pretty huge and unwieldy. Now I'd probably go for a cast iron skillet with a lid - you don't have to wash it out and it's nonstick.

Food: Stay tuned for a huge blog post about my nutrition and food budget on the road. 

Food storage: Get the best cooler you can afford. Buy block ice if you can, it melts slower. If you intend to keep meat, be prepared to get ice every 3 days or so. I also recommend having a shelf that sits above the ice so your meat doesn't sit in icy meat-juice while mingling with your fresh veggies.

Cleaning: Really, you don't need to wash your pans / plates / forks / cups / dishes every single time you use them. So what if there's a bit of cooked egg crust on your skillet? Do you really feel like washing dishes three times a day without running water? I didn't think so. Embrace the "dirt" in dirtbag.


Blankets: Don't just bring a sleeping bag. Bring sheets, a medium-weight quilt, and a warm sleeping bag to go on top of you if it's cold out. A sleeping bag by itself gets really manky if you're sweaty - the fabric is slippery and uncomfortable. Having normal blankets is a huge plus.

Stealth Camping / City Camping: Walmarts are your friend. Even if they say "no overnight parking", you can usually get away with sleeping multiple nights if you're quiet and don't disturb anyone. I've also found that most rest stops are fairly quiet and safe, even as a female traveller. 


Hard Drive: If you're bringing a laptop with you, it's worth it to get a large hard drive (mine is 1TB) and load at least a couple dozen movies, TV shows, audiobooks, podcasts, ebooks, and music. Enjoying nature in the middle of nowhere is great at first, but at some point you'll be dirtbagging with the cute boy / girl across the way and you'll need some entertainment. It's also good earning bonus points from the dirtbag you let copy your movies onto his or her own hard drive. Extra tip: If you're a climber, pre-loading a dozen climbing movies onto your drive can be a real crowd pleaser around the campfire.

Books: Books are great, but they take up a lot of space. Choose wisely and consider picking ones you don't mind trading. Or, get an ebook reader. 


Charging: Put a power strip in a backpack. Before entering the coffee shop whose electricity you intend to steal, plug all your devices into the power strip and then stack in the backpack. 

Airplane mode is your friend.


Don't bring a lot of clothes. Think like a backpacker. Layers are your friend. 

Sweatpants: I have a raggedy old pair of cotton sweatpants that are my best friend, especially when it's cold. I cut off the lower six inches so I can warm up in them when climbing in cold weather.

Underwear: If you bring a lot of anything, bring a lot of underwear. These tend to be the limiting factor in how long I can go without doing laundry. If I have a pair of clean underwear, I don't need to wash my clothes.


General Delivery: You can have items sent "General Delivery" to most post offices. I've only tried in small towns so far, but the post office holds the item until you pick it up. Usually, for free, if it's sent via UPS.


That's all for now. Happy dirtbagging!





Switching from Dieting to Maintenance

This summer, I dieted for 4.5 months to see what it could do. I had decent results, but ones that were ultimately killed by 6 3-day weekends in a row in the Red River Gorge. At the end, I was a guilt-ridden, obsessive and frustrated individual who just wanted to have a normal relationship with food.

So, about a month ago, I decided to make the switch from dieting to maintenance without counting calories. The rules were as follows:

  • Eat strictly paleo 
  • But none of that "paleo" bullshit like using honey in the place of sugar and almond flour in the place of normal flour
  • No nut butters (I have a tendency to binge)
  • No adding oils when cooking - fats must come from meat / eggs / avocado. It's easy to go overboard with cooking oils.

In addition to these rules, I decided that I needed to re-learn intuitive eating. I've been working hard at eating only until I'm satisfied (and not even necessarily "full"). I'm teaching myself to eat when the hunger stops and not when I get that bloated-stomach-fullness feeling. Here's how I've been working on that:

  • I'll fill a bowl with a much smaller portion than I think I'll need, but assure myself I can come back if I need more 
  • I'll grab myself a bowl of something to eat and the second I don't feel hunger pangs, I put the bowl out of sight and keep working until I feel hungry again. 
  • I don't keep snacky foods around, just foods that I have to cook into a legitimate meal
  • I've been incorporating a lot more fat into my diet and significantly less carbs
  • I don't ever let myself get really hungry, because that's when I make bad decisions. So I eat when I'm at like a 6 out of 10 on the hungry scale, when my decision-making skills are still in check

What I've been noticing as a result:

  • I need a lot less food than I think to stay full
  • I panic a lot less about having enough food
  • I'm eating to make my body feel healthy and run efficiently, not to satisfy a craving
  • I don't crave sweets (WHAAAAT?). Or alcohol. Or carbs. I just want to eat healthy, protein-filled meals. It was crazy, but on thanksgiving I loaded up on turkey and didn't really even think about the sides. I wanted to stay on track, and didn't feel guilty or deprived. 

I guess I've learned so much from this diet. Who'da thought. 

Happy eating,

The Weak Machine

List: Jeans for Women with Huge Butts/Legs.

This is a little different from my normal content, but I think it'll apply to the type of people who generally read this blog.

Anyway, I've always wanted a list of jeans that would fit my abnormally large squatters legs and butt. So far, I've found two models that are particularly awesome (but I hope to add to this list in the future):

1. Prana Kara Jean

  • Tapered leg, but not too skinny
  • Super stretchy- the thighs stretch to fit while the waist is the perfect size. Stretchy enough for climbing
  • Longer inseam so you can cuff them and look like a proper climbing hipster

2. The Gap Legging Jean

  • Stretchy enough for everyday use (but not for climbing)
  • Slightly classier/more professional look depending on the wash/color you get
  • Skinny leg
  • Shorter inseam

If you know of other jeans I should try, leave a comment.

-The Weak Machine

Link: The Survey

Here's a cool article from Climb Strong about a survey they did of climbers. Of particular interest was the correlation between redpoint grades and static hang time, which gives some credence to hangboard workouts. More interestingly, it gives credence to hangboard workouts structured like Eva Lopez's, which are centered around edge hangs (as opposed to slopers, pockets). 


Smith Machine Crunches

I'm not a big fan of the smith machine. I'll admit, I was pretty elitist about it, even after I decided that I kinda maybe somewhat liked machines. You can't squat with proper form using one.

Then, I went home to my parents' house for a weekend and my dad happily announced that he had "gotten another squat rack" (I already have a squat rack). I nodded my head and smiled, then went on with my business. Later that day, I went downstairs to discover that he had not gotten another squat rack.

He'd gotten a smith machine

I shuddered as I looked at it, then resolved to ignore it while I did my real squats and other lifts of the day. 

Yet, as I sat between squat sets, I began thinking about how I'd been doing cable crunches at the gym as a way to exercise my core. 

Previously, I'd hated any sort of core workout.  Most core exercises make you do a thousand repetitions of some light weight until your core burns, but this doesn't follow the principle of progressive overload for strength. A thousand reps of anything won't make you stronger, it'll only give you better endurance. Plus, I'd been told that I'd get enough of a core workout from my squats, deads, and pullups. But with a cable machine, you could continue to add weight and make your reps low enough to actually build muscle.

Unfortunately, I had no cable machine at home, and therefore no way to do heavy weighted crunches. Holding a 45lb plate above my head was about my only option, and that would be incredibly awkward.

As I sat there for a bit longer, I had a breakthrough: SMITH MACHINE CRUNCHES!

Solution: weight up the smith machine bar. Lower bar to lowest setting. Lay on floor. Crunch while pushing up bar. Increase weight as needed.

Bam. Core workout.

Oh, and I've been getting more ripped abs as a result. I haven't really lost much body fat recently (5lbs at most), but here's a picture from a recent climbing trip:

Definitely have some abs poking through. Success.


Run Commuting

Well, my run hiatus officially ended this summer. After about a year of no running following running my very first ultramarathon, I decided I missed it and that it would be a good asset for my diet project. 

I was typically running 2-3 miles after work on days that I didn't go rock climbing. It added up to about 8 miles a week, max. It was nice to get out and listen to a few episodes of the Dirtbag Diaries while destressing from a day of sitting in an office. 

Then, about a month ago, school started up. I had to give my loaner bike back to my friend, and I was found bikeless. Fortunately, I took advantage of a local bikeshare program, so I wasn't without speedy transportation to work, class, and the gym. 

Unfortunately, a bikeshare program has all the downsides of, well, sharing your bike. In addition, the bikes get put away once it gets snowy and I'd be resigned to walking several miles a day between different locations.

My run-commuting look.

My run-commuting look.

Then, it occurred to me. I was already running in the afternoons in addition to my bike commuting. That's a lot of unnecessary mileage. Why not just get my running in by commuting instead? 

The perks seemed pretty good: get some exercise periodically through the day (my commutes average about a mile and a half, but I have a lot of them: run to work, run to the gym, run back from the gym, run home); not have to do a run at the end of the day; the time spent running wasn't that much longer than it would take to walk to the bicycle sharing rack, check out a bike, cycle to the shared rack near my destination, check it back in, then walk to wherever I was going - I could literally walk out my door and run to the door of wherever I was going. 

The downsides were also there: I'd have to run with my backpack; I'd be sweaty throughout the day; I'd have to pack extra clothes to change into once I got wherever I was going (I usually end up just staying in my running clothes, thank god my employers don't care how I look at work).

But that didn't bother me. I don't care about being sweaty and don't really care about looking cute. The worst thing, really, is the backpack. Fortunately for me, I have a decent REI backpack with hip, sternum, and compression straps. I cinch that thing down to ultimate dork level, and running with it feels pretty natural. The only thing that makes me cringe just a little bit is the weird looks I get from people as I fly past them on the sidewalks on campus. Oh well. I've decided I care more about getting my workouts in than what people think about me while I do them.

I like to think of it as preparation for my eventual fastpacking adventures in some remote, mountainous terrain. 

Happy running,

The Weak Machine

High protein, low-ish carb, low volume cutting / camping food

I've been on a spree of travelling over my long weekends now that I have Fridays off from classes and a weekly hours limit at my job. The last two weekends I've been climbing and camping out of town, and have the following three booked for the same.

I've also been dieting since June, and am attempting to stay on track over weekends. And while I'm fine with the occasional diet vacation, five 3-day weekends in a row of non-tracked eating would totally set me back.  Which brought me to the dilemma of how to eat healthily and count calories while camping. 

So, in breaks between projects at work, I sat down with a pen and paper and sketched out some ideas for 4ish meals per day. Here's what I came up with. Only a few items will need refrigeration, namely the ham and the sausage. But these I'll just store with an ice pack in a small container until needed. 

Contents Per Day (I'll be camping for 3 days, so the grocery list was these things x 3):

  1. Breakfast 
    1. 5 oz packet of salmon = 140 calories
    2. "Low-in-Carb" veggie wrap = 60 calories
    3. 1/2 small avocado = 110 calories
    4. Small tomato = 20 calories
  2. Lunch
    1. 7 oz chicken pouch = 245 calories
    2. 1/2 small avocado = 110 calories
    3. "Low-in-carb" veggie wrap = 60 calories
    4. Small tomato = 20 calories
  3. Snack
    1. 1 packet baby carrots (500g) = 175 calories
    2. Uncured Black Forest Ham (7 oz) = 175 calories
  4. Dinner
    1. Bear Creek soup mixes (I got tortilla soup and gumbo), 2 cups = 240 calories
    2. Chicken Apple Sausage = 480 calores (4 sausages)

Here's what it roughly looks like on MyPlate:

Obviously, you'll need to adjust based on your calorie goal. The macros for these meals:

  • 56g fat
  • 173g protein
  • 150g carbs

Not so bad. You could even cut down on the carbs if you took out the wraps, but I think these make the chicken / salmon a little more portable and palatable. 

Hope this helps anyone on a similar diet, or anyone who travels!

The Weak Machine





    Weight machines are fun

    As I was walking into the weight room today, a big sign confronted me with the fact that the free weights section of the gym was closed for approximately an hour for a Kinesiology class. I quickly went through the five stages of grief: denial ("maybe it's not actually closed?"); anger ("how could it be closed? how do I do deadlifts??? WTF???!"); bargaining ("maybe I can talk to the professor..".); depression ("my gains are going to shit, I'm never going to be strong..."); and finally, acceptance.

    At this point, I considered the option of either: running on the treadmill for half an hour, or going to the machines section of the weight room and going against my entire mentality for lifting. However, at the prospect of running without headphones while daytime TV was blaring on the screens in front of me, I decided to give the machines a try. 

    As I fought my repulsion toward machines and sat down at the lat pull, it occurred to me that this was probably a good time to work on things I usually didn't get to work on, like isolation exercises. 

    I quickly finished my first set and looked around the room. There were 30 or so machines and only two other people using them. I decided that it wouldn't be poor etiquette, then, to do a little circuit and maximize my time.

    Because of the efficiency of changing weights (with these machines, you pull out a pin and move it up or down a stack to pick a weight), I could do 4-5 exercises while resting from my first set of lat pulls. 

    In a time period of 20 minutes, I did 5 sets of: wide lat pull downs, leg curls, back extensions, "bench" press, and cable crunches. That was pretty cool. Then, in the next 20 minutes I did leg presses, flies, hip adductors and abductors, Usually, my workouts with free weights are 3-5 exercises long. On the machines, I was able to exercise more of my body in a shorter period of time.

    And, it was fun. Like, really fun. Walking to the gym that day was a slog; I was tired of my routine and feeling pretty down. But doing something different like working on my weaknesses and doing a lot of work was pretty cool. 

    I think my perspective on machines is changing a bit. I don't think they're the best for getting strong, and they'll never become my main lifts. But perhaps I'll slot a machine day into my routine from now on.



    Gear Junkie: Boreas Gear

    While this website is mostly about fitness, I'm also pretty obsessed with the outdoors. I also know that, if you were brought here because you like my climbing posts, you probably like the outdoors too. And with any outdoor enthusiast, there comes an enthusiasm for good outdoor gear.

    I wanted to write a post about this company because I've been watching it like a hawk this spring, and I haven't found too many other blogs mentioning it. Boreas Gear is a new company that makes backpacks and more recently, tents. The reason I think they're so awesome is because they have a huge emphasis on beautiful design; from what I've read, the founder was originally into conceptual car design.

    These days when you shop for a backpacking pack, you mostly find bags that are overloaded with features: straps, zippers, lids, loops, tie downs, cup holders, pockets, and other doodads. As an individual going into (cartographic) design, these ultimately ugly and unnecessary features are a huge turnoff when trying to choose a bag. Boreas approaches backpacks minimally and beautifully with backpacks that look like this:

    Boreas Buttermilks 40L

    Boreas Buttermilks 40L

    Simple, beautiful, and minimal. It's my style. I love it.

    However, here comes my gripe: there aren't many options for women. The two packs I'm interested in, the Buttermilks and the Sapa Trek, either don't come in women's sizing or are a frustrating off-white color that will undoubtedly look pretty terrible after being dragged around in the woods for a few weeks. 

    Depressingly, I've tried looking elsewhere to other companies to find a backpack that might reproduce the feelings I get when looking at Boreas' packs. There really aren't any. Which is very weird to me, considering just how many backpack companies are out there. 

    I'm hoping the company will wise up and bring out more options for women. In the meantime, I'll be scouring their Facebook/instagram/website in hopes that they get something out before I move into my truck next year. 

    You can find Boreas' backpacks here


    6 things I wish I knew before starting my cutting (dieting) phase

    I've been cutting (dieting, in bodybuilding terms) for about three months now. While I've made progress, it hasn't been stellar.  If I could go back in time to when I first started this diet, sit myself down and have a chat, here's what I would say:

    1. You're in this for the long haul

    There is no "I'll be ____ skinny and weigh ____ pounds by [date]". This is not a race. This will become your lifestyle. Stop worrying about little slip ups, vacation meals and what you're going to eat when you're with people who don't know you're on a diet. It's about the long-term trend, and micromanaging will make you stressed out and cranky.

    2. Carbs make you hungry

    Eating carbs, even from "healthy sources" like starchy vegetables, have the effect of filling you up in the short term but making you hungry in the long term. It has the paradoxical effect of making you hungrier than when you started (and more prone to bingeing on food that you shouldn't eat). Cutting down on carbs will make you a much happier dieter.

    3. After a month of dieting, re-calculate your daily caloric needs based on your results to date

    At the beginning of my diet, I used an online calculator to figure out how many calories I generally burn in a day. However, I now know that I overestimated how many calories I needed, thus slowing my weight loss.

    After a month of solid dieting, look at the last two weeks. How many calories did you eat per day? How much weight did you lose? Do some calculations:

    Take your total weight loss for the last two weeks in pounds and convert that to calories (3500 * each pound lost). If you divide that by 14 (two weeks), you can figure out how much of a deficit you've been eating per day from your maintenance level. If you know your deficit, than you can figure out roughly how many calories you need per day. For example:

    If you lost 1lb in two weeks, that means you ran a deficit of 3500 calories over those two weeks. Each day you would be "losing" 250 calories (3500cal / 14 days). If during those two weeks your intake was 2000 calories per day, that means the number of calories your body actually burns per day is around 2250 (and not 2500, like you thought). From here, you can reassess your daily caloric intake, setting it to 1800 instead of 2000 and staying on track with goals. 

    4. Ease your way into the diet, but keep improving as you go along

    At the beginning, I was afraid of this diet. Afraid to cut down on calories. Afraid to lower my carb intake. So I set meager goals and then sat around for two months wondering why I wasn't getting anywhere. What I really should have done was: 

    Start with a reasonable calorie goal. Maybe a 200 calorie daily deficit the first week (most people start around 500), then the next week try for a 250 calorie daily deficit. . Also do this with carbs. Start with something reasonable, like 200 grams of carbs per day. Every week, decrease that number by 20. Fill the gap in calories with protein or fat. It's really rewarding to be moving forward and seeing better progress every week rather than staying stagnant. 

    5. Artificial sweeteners are okay in moderation

    Yeah. I know you don't dig artificial stuff. It's not natural or paleo or whatever. I know you scoff at people who drink diet coke ad infinitum. But that honey and sugar in your tea makes you really hungry/craving sugar and it's not worth it. Even though this diet is long-term, it's not permanent. You can eat more naturally once your done. Just get through this for now. A little stevia makes your greek yogurt taste awesome without making you super hungry later.

    6. These foods are awesome for diets. Eat them:

    1. Plain greek yogurt. Tasty breakfast, even better with protein powder
    2. Salmon that comes in a packet. 2.5 ounces, 70 calories, super filling. Great with eggs.
    3. Eggs. More eggs. 7 a day. With all the fixins.
    4. Frozen vegetables. Specifically the "California Blend". Eat 5 cups with lunch and you won't be hungry after, I promise.
    5. This ranch dressing. This brand saved my life. 45 calories instead of the usual 210, and you can put it on anything to make it taste less bland. 
    6. Frozen chicken breasts. Cheaper per pound than fresh and you're just going to be putting them on salads anyway.
    7. Chicken broth/bouillon. Frozen veggies go well in chicken broth too. Good for adding flavor to bland stuff.
    8. 1% Cottage cheese. 80 calories for half a cup. Eat with carrots / cucumbers / tomatoes. Filling late night snack that's hard to binge on.